New multi-pitch route up at Pipe Dream! Best summit view in the Right Fork!

Pitch 1: 5.10a - Start on the semi detached flake and climb to a steep face with hidden pockets. This pitch is the crux of the route and ends at a three bolt belay on a nice ledge. 10 bolts.

Pitch 2: 5.9 - Climb to the right of the hole in the wall and continue on lichenized cobbles to the next three bolt belay just below the summit. 12 bolts.

Pitch 3: Low 5th -  Scramble up the easy ledges passing two bolts. Rappel directionally back to pitch 2 and be mindful of rope swing. 2 bolts.

With the addition of this route, it is now possible to summit via any of the other pre-existing routes on this wall.

High as a Kite

Toxic Turkey

Wyoming Sheep Shagger

Divine Jest

Eulogy

La Confienza

Dang Awesome

Sprout

Deliverance

The Great Feast

Dry Spunk

Take it for the Team

Don't Mess With Confianza

T-Rex

PipeDream

Rucksack Wanderer

Wake and Bake

Ego Boost

Excavation

Whole Shot

Le Spunk

Squeel Like A Pig

Toxic Tomatoes

Buddha's Belly

Diggler

Toxic Potatoes

Rodeo Clown

Solstice

Kama Sutra Bicycle

Infinite Jest

Orgasmo

Millennium

Toxic Watermelon

Don't Mess With Texas

Long Present

Mexican Rodeo

SuperSpunk

Mutton Bustin

Waterfall Route

Dry Times

This route starts on two large holds about 35 feet from the right side of the Pipe Dream cave proper.  Twenty feet of slightly pumpy 5.11 climbing brings you to the base of the massive roof.  From here every move is about V3, and the hard part is dealing with the crippling pump that grows with every bolt you pass.  If you make it to the lip of the cave, rest up, and endure another 25 feet of 5.11+ endurance climbing.

Unfortunately, due to the nature of the rock, and some aggressive cleaning tactics, this route suffered some major enhancing(drilled pockets), and reinforcing.  With that said, the quality of the moves, the position, and Maple's irresistibly fun style still warrant three stars.

Wyoming Sheep Shagger(WSS) is a bit unique for the Pipe Dream.  Instead of slowly draining your stamina with rest after rest, WSS is all about big, thuggy moves, and continuing to move between quick shakes.

Located on the left side of the Pipe Dream, just left of a large cave feature, WSS tackles a very steep section of the cave, that involves two distinct boulder problems before joining the end of La Confianza.

A link up of Divine Fury and Infinite Jest.

One of the King Lines in the cobble cave, linking the power endurance route "Millennium" into the endurance finish of "Don't Mess With Texas".

Start in the back of the cave  and climb the first four bolts of harder than you'd like climbing to an ok shake.  Wrestle thru the watermelon size cobble, low V5 ish and at least 5 different beta variations.  Steep roof climbing with some rest opportunities takes you to a good double kneebar.  It's considered low end 13b to here.  Jug bash out of the rest, generally skipping a draw and come into the crux a powerful V6ish boulder problem.  After the crux it helps to skip or backclean a few draws for ropedrag.  I skipped the next 3.  Get to the large red cobble rest on La Confianza, clip out right and climb thru some easier terrain with rest opportunities to the next crux.  While only V5ish this crux might feel hard after all the earlier hard climbing.  Get thru this and try to get it all back in the double kneebar rest shared with "The Feast".  Bash your way up the 12b/c headwall probably skipping a few clips, the second bolt after the rest is new after the re-bolting of the cave and is a dogging bolt.  Clip the chains and you're ready to start working T-Rex.

Climbs the start of Rucksack, but busts right at the jug after the big move. It continues right at the next split, and follows the draws up to the closest chains. There's a kneebar at the first split and two at the second, as well as one more right before the last crux. (the crux is the last four moves.)

This route and it's neighbor Buddha's Belly (10a) are close together and are the two that you'll most likely notice first.  The 3rd route (10d) is farther down to the right.

This is an excellent route, with consistent rock and somewhat sustained edges.

This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.

Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some trickery and then pull 5-6 more draws of 12- to the chains.

Feels similar in length and angle to pump-o-rama in rifle. It even shares the same crux move, a right kneebar reach move off of crimps.

Start on the rightmost line of fixed quickdraws, and continue up and right past good holds to a rest just below the headwall.  Move left through sidepulls and pinches until you make a large move that establishes you over the lip of the roof.  Make a few more challenging  moves and then continue to the top, staying just left of the obvious blackstreak/waterfall.

Straight out the center of the Pipe Dream Cave, this super long, and sustained route is all about endurance, resting, and staying relaxed.

Start on two pinches, and climb an 11d to a huge jug at the 5th bolt.  From this hold the angle of the wall steepens and the difficulty of the climbing increases.  After resting, make a bunch of V3 moves to a right trending rail and continue up this feature to a jug.  Do another 20 feet of V3 moves to a ledge where it's possible to get an upside-down double knee bar rest.  Once you are recovered, cut left (the right line of quickdraws is Wholeshot) and do another V3 boulder problem to the second ledge where another kneebar is waiting.  Get it all back, and then veer slightly right into the most difficult and sustained section of the route.  Rest anywhere you can, tackle the redpoint crux at the last bolt and then top it out!

The easier variation to dry times, (the 12b that continues left after the obvious crack tapers out). This route climbs a slightly overhung dihedral/ crack system for 70 feet. Cop a rest as the crack fades into a final 15 feet of standard cobblestones to the anchors of Le Spunk. Its no harder than 11c, although I might have heard someone mention 12a or something, new guidebook please..

Fun route with a good flow to it.  Easy climbing at the start until the 3 or 4th clip where a small roof appears.  Pull the roof and race to the anchors because its pumpy and consistant.

Climb La Confianza to the red cobble 2 bolts from the anchor, then head up Dont Mess with Texas for 1-2 clips (skip the last one to avoid rope drag) to the Long Present rail and traverse back left 10' to the Confianza chains.  Steeper, longer, and slightly easier than Confianza and much easier on the left shoulder.

Starts on Wyoming Sheep Shagger and goes right to the Divine Fury Anchors.

Start out on vertical jug climbing.  Skip the first bolt which is only meant for cleaning, which you don't need to do since the draws are fixed.  The climbing gets progressively steeper to a tricky sequence around the 4th or 5th bolt. Deal with some slopers and get the jug.  Most people skip the dogging bolt through this section.  From here the Diggler and La Confienza branch out to the right.  Head straight up through the crimpy crux and head to the anchors.  The final moves, although easier still feel hard as your quite pumped at this point.

Another great line of cobble pulling sweetness. The crux comes high up on the lip where the angle kicks back. This route shares anchors with Rucksack Wanderer.

This climb starts on La Confianza and goes left to the anchors on T-rex. Long, pumpy.

This, along with Dry Spunk, is probably the easiest of the routes to the left of the cave.  It consists of mostly jugs so like so many other routes in Maple, just hang on long enough to clip the chains.

Starts on GF and moves right. Distinct crux after the split.

A little atypical for Maple in that it is not really all that pumpy.

Start out with some long moves off the ground to a small roof. Get your game face on because the next 20-25 feet is the meat of the route. Move up on sidepulls and cool pockets past a nice pinch on your way to a straight down pulling hold just below the obvious 1 foot roof. make a couple more difficult move over the roof to the spike that marks the end of the difficulties. While there are other moves up above that might make you stop to think there are also numerous great rests and the wall is less steep.

One you reach the anchors, if you are feeling good consider trying the extension Super Spunk.

This route shares the first 40 feet of the 12d at the far right side of the Pipe Dream.  Instead of continuing up the blunt arete, cut left and tackle a short, steep, thuggy boulder problem(V6?) that brings you to last resting jug of Spurt(13a).  From here, make a large move to the lip, and finish with 25 feet of pumpy 5.11+ climbing to the chains.

If you are in bouldering shape, this route will feel soft for the grade.  Some suggest 13b.

Smaller cobbles and harder than its neighbor (T.Potatoes).  Ends on the same anchors as Toxic Potatoes.

After getting through the last bulge on Rucksack Wanderer, bust right to a big cobble and kneebar rest. A couple of big moves up on good holds takes you to a jug that is typically full of bird crap since it is a nest, grab it shallow unless it has been cleaned out recently. A couple of moves up you are landed in some good pockets out of sequence. Fix your hands and make a move up then gun for the jug at the anchors. Quite an exciting finishing throw and pretty much guaranteed to give you some flight time.

Another good warm up for the cave.  Trend right on slightly more than vertical face on jugs reaching chains up in the "hole" next to chains for toxic watermelon.

Start on Wake and Bake, climb past the anchor and cut right onto a steep rail and join the leftmost extension(T-Rex) out the huge roof.

Crazy steep, with big holds and some jumpy sections.  5 star climbing, 2 star rock.  Bring your endurance!

Great climbing with a mix of jugs and technical climbing.  Start on positive cobble and pull small roof on first half, from there make a few balance, crimpy, long moves to reach chains.

Climb Don't Mess with Texas to the double knee-bar rest at its junction with the Feast.  After a thorough shake, break left into new terrain.  Execute a series of desperate and precise spans -- a drive to a smooth brick, a float to a serendipitous (read: natural) pocket, a toss to an improbable side-pull -- and continue through moves which become both easier and sandier as the anchor is approached.

This route is the farthest left route at the Pipe Dream and shares the Dry Times crux and anchors.  From the start, gradually pumpier climbing leads to a technical crux boulder problem.  Continuously steep and tricky pumpy climbing with few shakes follows and deposits you at the Dry Times crux with inflated forearms.  A fabulous outing.

Starts at the very back of the cave.  Begins with long moves between positive albeit slopey holds and ok feet to the 4th bolt where you can cop a quick shake before wrestling through a watermelon-sized cobble (look for a knee bar here to make this a little easier).  From here, the angle kicks back to horizontal and all underclings take you to a double knee bar rest.  This has been said to be a 13b or so to the double knee bars.

From this rest, start out with juggy moves to another ok rest.  From here the holds get small (for maple) and a lot of tension is needed to move left to the jug rail that is on la confianza.  Sprint through this section and through the confianza crux to a final rest.  From here take a hard left and do the text book jump finish to the anchor clipping jugs at mid-height in the cave.

Lots of trickery on this one.  Look for some subtle knee scumming where the climbing seems to get the hardest...it'll help.

Climb huge jugs to a good rest just past halfway.  Finish on more jugs at the chains under the roof.  The easiest warmup at the cliff.

climb confianza to the big red cobble at the last bolt. clip the right draw and head right into a series of big holds and a couple knee bars (the first of which is difficult to use if you're 6'4"), rest up, then bust a v5/6 crux, skipping the clip to join 'great feast' at the big ledge. finish 'great feast'. be careful up there, holds are still breaking.

Climb all of 'Diggler' to the chains; head right across a rail to join up with 'Don't Mess With Texas'.

Starts on Diggler and goes left to the T-Rex Anchors.

After climbing Le Spunk move up into the roof on a cool undercling cobble. Rest well here an head up the thuggy boulder problem over the roof and onto the blunt arete above. A few more moves up the arete lead to a move into a flake and a final move to an obvious jug that looks like it may house some birds.

Starts on Wyoming Sheep Shagger and goes left to T-Rex anchors

This long route climbs the black streak just right of Deliverance.  It is not permadrawed and sees little traffic.  There is some rotten rock in the first few bolts so be extremely careful.  The climbing gets better the higher you go.  My belayer stood by the start of Deliverance and out of the way of falling rock.

This outstanding route on the left side of the Pipe Dream follows an obvious left facing cobble corner up into an overhanging face and cobble crack.  An endurance jug haul that should not be missed!  An easier variation (Dry Spunk, 11d) climbs the cobble corner but traverses right to the Le Spunk anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Pipe Dream