Second route from the right on the main Bibliotek wall. Bouldery overhanging climbing for ~30-35 feet, followed by easier but reachy vetrical finish after pulling over the bulge.

The Stranger

The Fury

The Short, Happy Life of Francis Macomber

The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock

East of Eden

A Prayer for Owen Meany

The Unbearable Lightness of Being

Lolita

The Sound

100 Years of Solitude

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man

Who Pooped in the Park?

No Country for Old Men

All The Pretty Horses

Tea at the Palaz of Hoon

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

American Psycho

Everything That Rises Must Converge

The Giver

A Confederacy of Dunces

3rd sport route from the right on the main wall

While reading The Sound and the Fury is a bit of mental workout, this route is much more of physical challenge.

The Fury is the obvious line on the left side of the Bibliothek. Incredibly steep for the grade, this route is formidable test of forearm endurance. Climb onto a ledge by the first bolt, take a deep breath, and sprint for the anchors. If you're grabbing a bad hold, you're probably doing it wrong. Classic!

Worth doing if for nothing else than to get used to the rock here- an engaging start through the first two bolts leads to easy climbing above.

Start on the far left of the Bibliotek wall Shares start with another route that goes left, but this one climbs a line straight up from the start.

Punch through a short, steep section to gain a good stance. Cruise a few feet of easy terrain then start firing through sequential moves on sharp pockets and underclings to the top.

Short, mossy, possibly damp right-angling hand crack. Still pretty fun though.

One of the tough things about finding these routes is that they all look the same. The guidebook helps here.

This fun, juggy line has great movement and some engaging cruxes that lead to a spooky final crux section just below the anchors.

A steep short climb with plenty of Red River Gorge finger buckets. The crux can be done by making a few extra moves out left or one big move to a jug. A fall from the third could result in decking if your belayer isn't careful.

Pull on and climb through 5 feet of jugs then enter a reachy sequence that leads to paddling on decent holds with an occasional jug rest higher up. With lesser rock quality and quite a bit of sand up high, this one doesn't quite live up to the reputation of its neighbor.

This is probably the best route on the wall- an engaging start past a thin section leads to five fun jugs above.

4th line from the right on the main Bibliotek wall, has a prominent sloper sticking out before the first bolt.

Starts to the left of the crack, and then moves right at the second bolt to the crimpy slightly overhanging face. Clipping the anchors is really hard for short people. It looks like a bad fall, too, but really isn't.

A route between All the Pretty Horses and The Unbearable Lightness of Being, starts on two underclings.

5th sport route from the right, on the main bibliotek wall.

The last route on the main Bibliotek wall, right before the large amphitheater. Traverse farther left from the shared start of the Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock.

Step up off the ground and pull some fun moves trending a bit left. It becomes apparent quickly what kind of climbing you'll be doing...steep, continuous pulling on mostly good pockets as you fight the pump towards the top. An obvious crux comes about 2/3rds the way up as the holds lessen in jugability. Some less-than-obvious holds help here.  Climb better holds to the finish.

Establish on sharp pockets and follow good holds to a pair of underclings below a small roof. Surmount the roof and continue on jugs to a break. The chalk and ticks have likely washed away, so do a bit of route finding and make your way to the chains.

This is the flake to the left of Who Pooped in the Park?  It certainly is not a classic and felt harder than the 5.6 rating in the book.

The first 3 bolts are a little rough, but the overhanging climbing above is better quality.

Description

Protection

Routes in Bibliothek