This climbs the right most line.  It starts steep, ascends to a small ledge.  It then continues up the face until it crosses from the west face to the south face.  Very steep and thin climbing.  The step left felt so exposed.  It is a good climb, and the protection is good.

Sting, The

Frans

Tweak or Too weak

Shady Crack

This climbs the crack/weaknesses just to the right of the broken chimney.  It has some rotten rock, especially at mid-height.  A couple of small finger locks, and knuckle-crunching jams, a few more lieback style moves, and a couple of lunges to fingertip holds.  A tough climb.  Beware of the top-rope, because of the tree make sure you can commit to making the first 15-20 feet, to prevent a swing into the tree.

On the left wall is a bolted line that splits at the 3rd bolt.  The left variation is Frans, a tough face climb that looks easier than it is.  A hard 1st bolt clip, followed by decent moves to the second, that can be clipped by using the bomber ledge.  The 3rd bolt is the problem.  Beware of the crack to the right as there is loose rock.  To be continued.....

Climbs a beautiful, unique (for BCC), but very short dihedral -- nicest looking feature at Shady Lane.  Redpoint (screen pseudonym) calls this 12a on utahclimbers.com, but the hard climbing is over too quickly to be bona fide 5.12.

Description

Protection

Routes in Shady Lane