This strenuous roof problem is located about 40 yards to the right of the Piano Boulder. The grade is somewhere between V3-5 depending on your body type.

Easy climbing leads to a good jug at the roof.  A huge move leads to some small crimps near the top.  It is a little bit of a circus move.  If you are a circus performer you should have no problem.  A spotter is nice, due the dynamatic nature of the finish.

Gill Arrow Roof Problem

Unknown Bootie Traverse Variation

Far North Arete

Roof Crack

Unknown

North Arete (Unknown Roof)

Continental Shelf

Far North Slab (formerly "Unknown Slab")

Roof Reach

Fiction, Friction

Sloper Traverse (aka Baby Grand)

Brian's Song

Unknown / Piano West Face

Double Dipping

Bootie

Around the Bulge

Slab Left of the Piano Boulder (formerly "Unknown Slab")

Life on the Edge

Sloper Traverse 2 (unknown)

Far North Crack (formerly "Unknown Crack")

Handcracker

Mid-North Parallel Finger Crack

Piano Ridge Traverse

Piano Traverse

Hug N' Jug

Traction

Undercling

Don't Get Stumped

Spread Eagled

Unknown (submitted as Moth Pocket)

Bashie Line

Balance If You Can

Bootie Crack Traverse / Low

Tango

Piano West Face Unknown V3

Just Add A Pinch

Mid-North Lieback

Start off the lowest of the small, right-leaning rails just over the overhanging low part of the boulder. Establish your feet, and swing up to the right to very small dishes and the namesake pinch on the arete. From here, climb the main face of the boulder without stepping around the corner to the right, which would substantially ease the finish.

Let me know if you have more info on this route, as I am definitely not the first to climb this.

Start on the one handed jug to the left of the main start hold. Work your way straight up until you can throw a left heel hook, and then continue up the blank face to the big shelf.

This is a fun variation to

Far North Slab (formerly "Unknown Slab")

that makes an excellent warm-up for the slab problem itself and introduces the aspirant ascender of

Far North Slab (formerly "Unknown Slab")

to some of its holds.

This roof is located about 10 yards South of the Piano Boulder on the ridge.  Nearly facing due West is this juggy overhanging short crack. Mostly face climbing on monster jugs, but possible to set  a great hand jam or two.  To make this a little stiffer start five feet left and traverse on jugs to a butt scraping start and then launch into the line, the higher the feet the more the pump.

Start on the southwest corner jug, and use the short crimp rail to the right, avoiding the rail where the holds get big further right. Do a small throw with your right hand to a wide, flat pinch, work your feet, and make a large throw with your left to slap the arete. Get a high left foot, and top out.

Sit start on low jugs beneath the north-facing roof, move up and right with good hands, heel-hook, then move up on jugs before topping out.

This is honestly one of the best routes I've found at Horsetooth yet.

Sit start down low in the crack on the left of the boulder. Work your way right onto the crimps and finally onto the very obvious, depression sloper. Delicately get your feet up and mantel for the jug of jugs right below the lip. This actually has amazing variety for a boulder problem.

This is a good fun challenge. The crux is at the top as there is next to nothing to hold. What was good about this climb was that it took some time to figure out, and I really had to work my way to the top. The holds are few and quite small. I found this small wall just wandering around. There were no chalk marks anywhere, and it is mostly cover with dry moss.

This name was changed on 9/17/20 by

James Schroeder

to make navigating

Piano Ridge

easier. If you have any questions or know of an original name, please suggest that change from the menu at the top.

Locate just right of 'Roof Crack' about 10 yards South of the Piano Boulder on the ridge.  Sit start right of the roof crack on a jug and a left side pull. Make a long throw off high feet out to the right side of the roof and a nice ledgy jug. Match, throw the right heel just above and right of the hands. Crank up and left to an intermediate pocket/edge and then gun for the top. Mantel over easily. Can add the same left to right traverse from about 5 feet left of the Roof Crack to push the grade (V2 with feet high?).

Use the same start as the

Hug N' Jug

, the two jugs in the middle. Grab big jug directly above with left hand. Then take right hand all the way to the top, and grab a bulge that is very frictiony (if that's a word). Once there, situate your feet and grab more friction spots on top the rock to mount it.

This fun low traverse is on the boulder just downhill and to the left of the Piano Boulder, as you approach from the parking area. Begin this traverse on good holds on the south end of the boulder, with a heel hook at the start. Traverse to the left, then go around the corner to the good under-clings and move to the top.

Start on the big pocket on the left, traverse right to the pocket on the right, and top out. Delicate footwork will get you through the traverse.

Note: this almost certainly goes by another name, but it was shown to me by good buddy

Brian Kevitt

who spends a lot of time at

Piano Ridge

. Since I'm tired of the "unknown" name trend there, I'm adding it as "Brian's Song" - feel free to send in corrections if there is an earlier name.

Start low with right hand sidepull. Move up to sloping ledges and higher feet. Get a crimpy/sidepull out and right, then throw left to a moderately good, horizontal hold next to the vertical crack. Top out to finish.

Start at the obvious pocket and jug about 7 feet to the left of

the roof route

, and traverse left through two horizontal divots in the ridge line. Finish after the second divot where the ridge starts to break up. The second divot is the crux, but there's a great finger crack to practice your jamming technique on.

If you own the Colorado Front Range Boulding book Volume 1, it is listed in the book and is not are to find. It is 40 feet from the Piano Boulder. It is a steep slab left of the crack, is about 20 feet high, has good lay backs and feet, and is a really fun and easy problem.

The route starts on the farthest left jug on the boulder. Traverse to your right around an awkward bulge being sure to avoid the large, semi-detached block to right of the bulge. Crank up to the good holds on the face, and top out. These are fun, big moves for a route like this.

I'm sure this route has been done before, but I had a lot of fun on it.

Start on the nice jug and good feet for this one move wonder.

This name was changed on 9/17/20 by

James Schroeder

to make navigating

Piano Ridge

easier. If you have any questions or know of an original name, please suggest that change from the menu at the top.

Starting on the low left jugs, climb the left side of the arete using small crimps and dishes keeping body from turning the arete to the very easy right side. Be sure to keep your feet off the broken blocks to the boulder at the start and throughout the route.

This route has a mark on the left side of the arete. If this is your route, let me know, and the appropriate changes will be made.

Sit start using the crack just right of the start for

Sloper Traverse (aka Baby Grand)

. Lip traverse along the bulging slopers, and top out at the peak of the boulder.

Climb a short fingers to tight hands splitter crack. Jam away.

This name was changed on 9/17/20 by

James Schroeder

to make navigating

Piano Ridge

easier. If you have any questions or know of an original name, please suggest that change from the menu at the top.

This line is just right of 'Vertical Slab', walk to the right (south) of piano boulder, past the Roof Crack to the next nice wall. This fun line is the handcrack immediately right of the layback holds of V.S. It starts with some good jams, followed quickly by jugs. The topout is as high as it's neighbors but much easier.

This is pretty much a short, 2 move wonder. Sit start with a left ring lock in left crack and right hand on small jug/ledge. Pull through and jam your way up each crack to the top.

This name was changed on 9/17/20 by

James Schroeder

to make navigating

Piano Ridge

easier. If you have any questions or know of an original name, please suggest that change from the menu at the top.

This fun moderate traverse problem starts just behind the Piano Boulder.  Traverse to the left for 60ft, until the rock becomes broken and discontinous.  There are a number of variations along the way.  The harder variations take the low road, but some difficulties can be avoided by going high.

A good warmup for the area....

This fun traverse is the obvious boulder up from the approach trail, just off of the ridge.  Most people start on the NE arete on a jug and traverse counterclockwise around this boulder, but it is possible and possibly easier to go the opposite direction.  The moves are generally continous on the N, W and S faces on thin edges or slopers with predominately bad feet. The hard stuff is over after pulling onto the slabby E face.  Get it dialed and go for laps.

Begin in a sit start with your hands on the two holds in the middle that are chalked up. Reach with your left hand around the arete for a small crimp. Then situate your feet, and make big move with right hand for jug at the top. From here, you top out. Be careful not to tumble down the other side while topping out.

Traction is a very fun route! Start off the obvious, large edge in the middle of the face. Figure out how to get your feet up onto the face so you can reach up to the left-leaning edges near the top of the boulder to top out. This is a fun mix of power and finesse. Hop on it!

If you have more info on this route, please let me know. This and many of the fun moderates in the area were missing from MP.

This problem is on the North face of the Sloper Traverse Boulder. Grab the obvious underclings, paste your feet low, and make a reach up with left hand into another undercling, get feet up, and hit the top. It's a short problem, but who doesn't love underclings?

This route climbs up out of the small, cave-like feature guarded by the stump using both cracks. Start from the obvious jug under the roof climb out using the crack on each side of the refrigerator block to pull the roof, and top out.

Additionally each crack could be climbed alone at around V0+ to make three routes here. On the whole, this is good warm-up for the harder routes nearby.

Also, if you have any more information on these routes, please pass it on.

Start on the low jug rail immediately to the left of "

Around the Bulg

e". Use some moves to reach a small crimp on the left face before reaching up to the pinch at the top of the arete. Top out.

Start on south side of Bootie Boulder. Two opposing slopers are the starting holds. Move your left hand up the arete, and move your right hand up into the pocket. The crux is throwing your right hand to a crimp ledge. Throw to the top for a bomber jug.

Sit start from a small pedestal with your left hand on the obvious ledge on the left arete and finger lock low in the hand crack on the right. Bump your right hand to the crack to either a jam or side-pull, shoot your left hand around the left arete to hit a jug, and then top out.

Stand start on the right hand side of the slab on a small ledge, and move up and to the left to the horizontal crack/jug. Alowly balance and stand up to reach a small dish crimp that is just shy of the lip. Then reach over the lip for some jugs, and top it out.

This jug-haul low traverse sit-starts on the far right end of the Bootie Wall. Pull up to a series of pockets and jugs just above the undercut and move left, keeping feet off the ground. Haul into the vertical Bootie Crack and jam it up to top out.

Tango - a dance that combines strength, finesse, and good footwork.

This route begins at the right corner of the boulder on some medium edges. Set your feet well. Make a low traverse using the large edge in the middle of the face.

The crux: make a transition to the 2 slopers just to the right of the roof using some muscle and clever feet placement.

Pull into the roof. Here you can rest for ages. Top out the boulder by using the crack exiting on the left side of the roof. One good hand jam will do.

Start on the west face right where the approach trail reaches the boulder. Start low, and reach up to the large, horizontal crack. Make a move to a sidepull, then throw to the jug at the topout.

Start at the base of the small, right-facing dihedral, lieback to the top, and hit out left for a small, crimp rail before topping out on a small, hidden jug.

This name was changed on 9/17/20 by

James Schroeder

to make navigating

Piano Ridge

easier. If you have any questions or know of an original name, please suggest that change from the menu at the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Piano Ridge