This is an extension of the climb Huevos Locos (5.10a PG). Climb bolts 1-4 and then traverse right on 6 permadraws to finish at the anchors for Fangoria (5.12a)   35 meter rope recommended.

Lenora's Wrath Kept 'em Lawful

More Fun Than Bubblewrap

......Never Was, Never Will Be

Global Warming

Psycho Killer

The Airing of Grievances

Huevo's Locos

Bulimia

Illusionary Mentor

Pollution / Erosion

Pave the world

Identify Crisis

He Ain't My Brother

Fangoria

Insane Tree Hugger

Imaginary Friend

Chicken Tenders

Anger

I Stepped in BS

The Heart is Deceitful Above All Things

Dr. Jekyll

Mr. Hyde

Festivus, for the Rest of Us

Climb psycho killer's first 3 bolts, traverse to a bolt right before a deep groove. Head up towards a bolt under a roof. Clip, get your feet up, find awesome roof holds to the right and pull roof. PG rating is going to roof (5th) bolt on easy terrain.

Route was first led on trad in 1998 by Mike Klein. It's a roof crack that can be plugged up by big gear. However, there are now three bolts to protect it...I give it a PG-13 rating because it is mildly runout between bolts 2 and 3. And if you blow the clip, this route will hurt you pretty bad! If you happen to carry some hand size cams (maybe #2 or #3, you maybe able to protect the mild runout). But to make it fun, just run it out...In Hogge's guidebook, it states the climb starts to left on a chimney up to the ledge (dirty too) and walk back the roof, or you can direct start on face below ledge for a bouldery start up to ledge. Once you reach back of the cave, find first bolt, and either lay back and traverse left or hand jam across...I've done both and they are both effective. Crux is definitely pulling the lip...there are a few techniques you can employ to reach anchors...I hand jammed and it hurt like hell...the stone is sharp inside those cracks. Though the route is only 20-25' up from the ground to anchors...it climbs longer since the routes starts at the back of the roof.

A great route that gets little to no attention. 3 permadraws protect the short wave shaped face, traverse left for 2 perma draws and clip the chains above and to the left of the cave. A fun boulder problem between the second and third draw creates the routes committing crux. Move through the crux and clip from a great hold above the 3rd draw. Good holds traversing to the anchors will serve up a nice pump. Have a sharp belayer. Feet may hit the ledge if you fall at the 3rd bolt.

Pull the ledge at the routes first true bolt or scramble up by the start of Pave the World. The fun starts right off the deck with a gymnastic boulder problem requiring a right hand + right heel match. Once you gain the face, the technical difficulty eases off and a world of pumpy huecos starts. A really fun boulder start leading into a face full of quality limestone make this route a must do at the grade.

cool route that starts off easy, then once on ledge, have to pull up on huge jugs, then romp up on 5.6 to 5.7 climbing through middle of the route to another crux roof section, pull over on good holds and keep your cool.

Do first three bolts of Insane Tree Hugger, cross the off-width crack to the left and follow three permadraws up to its own anchors.

Do some moderate'ish moves to a jug in the crack where you clip the 2nd bolt on the main wall. I recommend using an extended draw for the next bolt and clipping it from the same hold due to it being in the middle of the crux. Then pull the crux and cheer for the only thing left between you and the chains is a few more moderate moves. This route rewards a strong boulderer due to little pump factor. Since the FA this route has been upgraded

A very fun and unique route. Climb the offwidth crack and traverse onto arête/slight bulge right below the 5th bolt. This is the warmup route for this wall.

Some holds have broken since the FA including at least one for the opening sequence making it a little harder. There are a couple crimps and footholds that appear to be friable so climb the route with caution. A little run out to the last perma but clean fall.

This is an incomplete route. But, its first bolt is also the start of I Stepped in BS and The Heart is Deceitful Above All Things.

Climb the large bolder and mount the ledge to reach the first permadraw.

Big Off-Width Crack to nice jug roof. Climb up the off width then move out right toward the top of the crack. Climb up to the anchors from there.

Scramble up the messy boulder stack left of the route and onto the ledge. Climb a seam through the wave and out a steep roof formation. All-air runout to the anchors.

Pull hard moves from the ground to glue reinforced edges culimating with a crux toss to a huge jug (also glue reinforced). Shake out here and finish the line on easier moves.

Climb the shelf/Boulder stack onto platform. Then go up steep face clipping two bolts. Rest of the bolts have perma-draws. The movement on this route is great. The steep wall under the tiered roofs are steep, but there are positive holds...find them! The roofs are bucket holds but fighting pump is key. Falls up high are clean. Perma-draws at the anchor, like most Reimers routes.

Route goes up into the orange rock and cave. Has glued-in bolts.

Starts first bolt of Identify Crisis, traverse the shelf left to clip at top of low roof, then left to the high bolt. Angles right behind the tree.

First two bolts  are on the boulder stack. Climb onto ledge, and clip third bolt. Big huecos above. Couple of ways of climbing onto face, dynoing is 1 option!! Be careful, there is poison ivy on this route. Anchors are below the high roof, but the route becomes overhung.

This is Dr. Jekyll's brother. Located  to the right of Jekyll. Similar climb to Jekyll, but the start is easier  and the finish is harder. Also some poison ivy on this route.

Climb up the main ledge and then follow the obvious crack up. It's almost a giant hueco. Follow the bolts along the right side and then traverse up and left on the permadraws to the sport anchors right above the third (fourth?) permadraw.

Awesome overhang with a high concentration of 5.11 and 5.12 routes.

Description

Protection

Routes in Insanity Wall