Peak Mountain 3

High Point

Description

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Directly north of End Pin lies an easy to get to area that houses one of the best little crack climb in the Ten Pins area. Start in a sandy area and make a fairly committing step up move and start plugging in small to medium sized nuts and cams. Leave your bigger stuff of the ground, but be sure to bring up small nuts, TCU's aliens all attached to medium sized quickdraws or slings to minimize your rope drag as you do a heady combination of crack and face moves. The crack looks short from the ground, but for some strange reason, seems to stick it to you about fifteen feet off the ground, and doesn't want to let up in terms of physical prowess, and mental stress, until you reach the knobby slope that sort of resembles the finishing moves on Tent Peg. When the crack ends, make sure that your small protection, whether it be an alien or a small nut, is backed up and secure, because the run-out to the anchors can cause your hands to get a bit sweaty with anticipation. The chain anchors are located on a nice ledge, and a one rope repel will get you down, as long as you don't get your rope stuck in the tree across from the landing zone. Repel down a face with some old, rusty bolts on it. I don't know the name of this climb, but I have found that top roping it can be done easily if you extend the chains with a couple of locking beaners. Or better yet, make your own anchor system by locking off a sling, or cordelette with locking beaners from the anchor bolts. I Gotta Take a Crack is a great workout for someone with who is aching for a great trad climb but cannot commit to the time it takes to do other Needles classics.


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