Peak Mountain 3

2. Madison Gulf (Mt. Adams)

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Do you like peace and quiet? Do you like moderate multi-pitch ice that hasn't been turned into a pegboard? How about long approaches and heinous bushwhacks?

If you answered yes to all of these questions, Madison Gulf may be the place you! With a plethora of possibilities, Madison Gulf offers many options from WI2 to WI4-ish, up to three pitches in length. While just about everything here has been climbed and named, I found adventure in leaving the guidebook at home and just choosing my own way, which seemed fitting for a backcountry area.

While Huntington Ravine was busy, most of the Frankenstein routes were in rough shape, and few other ice options existed, my partner and I found all the fat plastic ice we could handle - well worth the approach. May you be as lucky.


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