Sloth Slab
Description
[Edit]Sloth Slab is an upper-mountain beginner area. Most of the routes are 5.6 or less. I've witnessed many times how the typical 5.6-5.7 Mount Lemmon beginner route can be too difficult or intimidating for a brand-new climber, so I made this area. All the routes are bolted well, so it's a good place for first leads. Still, the cliff's low angle would make any lead fall unpleasant. The rock face itself starts out low-angle and slabby, but some routes actually go through a juggy and near-vertical section. Some anchors can be reached by scrambling to the top of the wall (there is no trail), but honestly it's easier and safer to just lead up a climb. The wall is west-facing, so it goes into the sun at about 11am. Most of the routes that are around the black-stained gully (which is Rocky Road - 5.3) start on the belay ledge about 15 feet up, where two, two-bolt-anchors exist. On those routes, a 60 meter rope will NOT reach if you belay from the ground. You can anchor into one of the 2-bolt belays if you really want to, but it's mostly there just so people have a safe place to practice anchor building and cleaning.
**** 70M rope recommended **** Tie a knot in the end of your rope ****
Almost all routes have lower-off hooks or biners at the anchors. You're welcome to lower off them AFTER you've finished climbing, but please toprope off your own gear. The one route that has more traditional chain anchors is "Pleistocene Megafauna", and that was done so people can practice cleaning and rappelling off of the older style of anchors.
Local climbing organizations
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