Peak Mountain 3

5.10 Wall, The

Description

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The centerpiece of the right cliff is the 120 foot tall shear 5.10 Wall, situated above the slabs, with a large wooded ledge between. The name is a misnomer since what appears to be a nice collection of 5.10 face climbs turns out to be a bunch of fiercely technical and sustained climbing that usually checks in at 5.12 or above. The joke on the new routers passed for many years into the tradition of sandbagging Owls route grades by a couple numbers. If you like techy steep face climbing, this is the wall for you. If you like hard technical, crimpy face climbing, some of the lines here rate with the best of their kind in the region.

The main wall faces SSE, so gets blasted by morning and midday sun, making it a great destination for dry Fall days

In the middle of the face is a large flake that will probably be reduced if a climb ever goes up next to it. All the established climbs are to the left of this flake to Hooters Arete and the giant corner of Wize Owl. There is one quality route further left Dragonfly Yoga, approached by carefully scrambling across the death slab. The right side of the wall is bound by a huge loose and often wet gully and a big buttress. To each side of the gully is great potential, but it will require some dedicated trundling.


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