Peak Mountain 3

Butterfly Wall

Description

[Edit]

A truly unique area for Mount Lemmon, the Butterfly Wall and the Trundle Pinnacle rank among the best crags around. The highly varied rock, in most places more similar to bullet-hard sandstone than granite, offers features found nowhere else on the mountain. Long pitches of impeccable stone, entire faces of pockets, overhangs, trad and sport climbs all await you. The environment and majestic views also make climbing here a lasting experience. Maybe it's just muscle soreness from the approach.

This wall saw its first technical climbing back in 1974 by Rich Thompson and Dave Baker. A lack of easily protectable traditional routes and a lengthy bushwack seemed to be enough to deter further development. Modern equipment and mentalities have shown this area to hold a plethora of quality climbing. NOTE: Some routes here require a 70M rope, and in some cases special tactics, to safely lower off.

Clearly visible from the Catalina Highway (Mi. 24) near the Loma Linda pullout as well as from the Butterfly Trail below, the wall still maintains a secluded atmosphere. Given the minimal human presence here the plants and animals are still in relatively pristine condition. Grass and trees at the base of the crag are a welcomed change to the dirt and erosion found at many other areas. Deer and turkey are a regular sight on the hike. In an effort to maintain this environment for future generations please take extra care to minimize your impact. Most of all enjoy your surroundings.


Local climbing organizations

[Learn more]

No organizations found for this area.

Do you know a great local organization? Let us know