Dick Van Dike

Given the name of the adjacent route to the left, "

Law School

" we were tempted to call this one "Walking the Green Mile". This is currently the furthest east (right) route on the rock. Scramble up to the first clip and wander past a few more hard to see clips until you can step left into a large, right-facing dihedral lined in fist-sized and larger quartz crystals, (some of questionable solidity). Step back right at the top, surmount a short headwall (crux), and get on the "Green Mile". This is a long, very fine grained, green intrusion that the rest of the climb follows. We were all tempted to use the fat crystals to either side, but in the end we all "Walked the Mile". Be aware that the clips are a long way apart through this section and several are impossible to see until your right on top of them. I would not suggest this route to a 5.9 leader whose only experience is in "Sport Bolted" climbs. The climbing up "The Mile" is probably only in the 5.7 range, but the leader needs to be comfortable running it out a bit. (As an aside, we also top-roped a direct connection to the headwall section, avoiding the traverse left into the dihedral staying well to the right. Excellent edging and if bolted would only take 3 clips or so as a variation, 10a/b, and would be a stupendous route.)

14- 16 clips plus anchors.