- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts on the face just beneath a large, right-facing flake/chimney near the east (right) side of the dome. The guidebook says to start left of a pillar and climb the white vein, but all I remember is pulling on funky not-so-trustworthy holds up the steep face to the base of the chimney, then climbing mostly crystals just right of the chimney and using an occasional stem or chimney move until I got to the 2-bolt anchor. Both my partner and I fell unexpectedly because of broken holds, he at the bottom half and I near the top, but once it's cleaned up it'll be a really cool route. We rappeled from the anchor, but one could continue up the next pitch (5.6) to the belay shared with "
Dick Van Dike
".
Protection
Less than 10 quickdraws. 14 if you do it in 1 pitch.