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Peak Mountain 3

So Happy Inside, All of the Time

FA Josh Pollock
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Description

This is a short, thin face climb that is immediately next to the approach trail - a good low-commitment option to play on if you cared to pause on your way up to the Upper Tier or if you had enough time for one more little go-round on your way out of the area.

The upper half of the short face has some fun, crimpy moves on small edges. Variations (most slightly easier than the directissima) abound. There is a way to make a short, so-so protected trad climb to the same anchors on the right edge of the rock, but your belayer will be standing right in the middle of the trail....

Location

The route is literally right next to the approach trail to the Upper Tiers: step left off the trail at the short rock face immediately before the start of the big stone stairs and you'll be standing in the start position. You can access the top anchors (bolts) via an easy scramble just off the stone stairs a bit higher - just look left for a notch/platform at the top of the rock, and step over when you are about level with it on the stairs.

Protection

Toprope from a bolted anchor. Bring 2 standard-length quickdraws to hang the rope over the top lip.