- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a long route with very good face climbing up to and after the slanting roof. There is a traversing crux move (maybe the hardest on the route?) just below the roof and a reach to the jugs above the roof that is sometimes difficult to suss out. The upper face stays steep and offers a 5.9 spot or two of its own.
A longer draw is recommended for the bolt just before the roof (the last one on the face below) to minimize rope drag, but there may still be some on the upper face. A 60 meter rope might just make it to the ground, but you better knot your ends just in case. Note that the top anchors are a body length below the lip, so if you are rigging the climb from above, you will need to anchor off a juniper tree (long slings) to climb down to the bolt anchors.
Location
It is on the right side of the First Triangle. The new approach trail from below deposits you at the start of this climb. If you approach from the main rappel gully, this is the line immediately to your left when you arrive on the ground.
Protection
12 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof.
Routes in B. First, Second, and Third Triangles
- 4Three Little Bats5.9+Sport