Fantasy Ridge

Fun route with good position and some spicy climbing. The intricate and sustained third pitch is the jewel of the route.

Hike around to the left of the large (100 foot high) flatiron leaning against the Bookmark. Go further, just around the SW corner of the formation and find a left-angling fist crack.

P1 - climb up past the fist crack, about 10 feet left of where it starts, into a short finger crack that gains access to an easy slab on the south face. Climb an easy corner and belay near its top.

P2 - head up onto a slab, clip an updated bolt, place a questionable small camming unit, and make delicate 5.9 moves to another easy crack. Belay at its top (a bit runout). Just so anybody doesn't get the wrong idea--on the second pitch, to find "another easy crack", make sure you make the "delicate 5.9 slab moves over to the right once you get above the manky bolt/TCU area. Going straight up would be disasterous 9X.

P3 - look for a prominent roof/alcove up and right. Enter it via a 5.8 corner, then climb out the right side and gain a thin crack. When that ends, climb a thin 5.9 crack smack on the SW corner of the formation, with great exposure. Make a 5.9 move to a ledge on the right, shortly before the crack ends (5.9, long pitch).

P4 - climb the overhanging 5.9 crack above the belay, and proceed easily to to the top. Cross a chasm to reach the rappel/downclimb, and choose a descent.

Bring a full standard rack--emphasize thin.