Original Fantasy Ridge

All guidebooks that I've seen say to start Fantasy Ridge with the first two pitches of

Joy and Tribulation

. However, Fantasy Ridge was first climbed by starting just to the left of

Melvin's Wheel

. The original start is basically ignored by the guides (for some unknown and probably not very good reason.) Since we had just done

JaT

, we decided to do the original Fantasy Ridge, and ended up climbing the best two pitches of 5.6 that I've done at Lumpy Ridge.

The pitch two crack is readily visible if you step back from the base of MW. It is the prominent crack just left of the top of the first itch of MW.

Begin just left of

Melvin's Wheel

in an unappealing chimney. This is just down to the right of the start of

JaT

. The chimney is actually surprisingly fun with stemming and jamming, and protects well. Climb up to a horizontal handcrack and follow it right to the next crack system. Follow this up to where it comes very close to

MW

. Shortly above this point is a small ledge, possibly with a bail sling. You can belay here, but I climbed up a bit more to where the you need to step right to the main crack, and set a hanging belay.

Follow the stellar crack all the way to the top of the second pitch of

JaT

. This pitch is fantastic. It is loonnng and is definitely the best pitch of the grade that I've done at Lumpy. A fist-sized cam or two will come in handy at the brief wider section, and the upper part is sewn up with nuts.

There are a couple ways to finish this climb. The most obvious is to continue with

Fantasy Ridge

(5.9). You can also hop up to the big ledge and climb the last pitch of

Joy and Tribulation

(5.8). Or, if you're up to it, there is always

Between the Sheets

(11d). I would imagine that it wouldn't be too complicated to go past the obvious

JaT

chimney and get into the descent gully. There is a sling rap anchor right there that will deposit you just a short scramble from the bottom of the Left Book.

Having done both starts to Fantasy Ridge, I'd have to say that the original start has much more quality climbing. I'm including this as a separate route because if a descent into the gully leading to the Left Book can be worked out (or if there is already a descent from the large ledge), it would be the best route of the grade I've done at Lumpy (and you wouldn't have to deal with the crowds on the Left Book.

Standard Lumpy rack. A #3 Camalot AND a #4 Friend are nice to have.