- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is also known as
Love Your Enemies
extension. It is not the best 5.12+ in the canyon, but it could be popular due to the lack of climbs of a similar grade on the wall. Upon reaching the end of
Love Your Enemies
(skip the chain anchor here), bust a hard left under the large roof, and make a reachy crux sequence to get to the jugs near the ending of
Execution
. Finish on the ledge as for that route. Essentially this line horizontally parallels
Execution
about 7 feet higher. Though it is quite inconsistent, and boils down to a difficult iron cross move after climbing a 12a, it’s got good rock and position, and I thought it bordered on 3 stars.
Side note: I talked to Brian Kimball about this rig, and he said he bolted it but never sent. I had to clean some dirt and flaky rock, but due to the convenience of the line and the easily-reachable bolts, I wouldn’t be surprised if this has been done. Please let me know if the route has already been sent, and I’ll change the name and FA.
Location
Basically Solicitor horizontally parallels
Execution
, about 7 feet above that route’s crux. Begin as for
Love Your Enemies
, but at the anchor, move left staying under the large roof and finish as for
Execution
. The line is 2 bolts of extra climbing.
Protection
Several fixed draws and 2 plain bolts, so bring a few extra draws. Someone ought to fix some draws on this, as it’s kinda hard to get clean after sending.
Routes in The New River Wall
- 33Solicitor5.12c/dSport