Merlin

This route is on a small rock along the approach to New River Wall, namely the short (~45 foot) rock just above the river after the Tyrolean just prior to New River Wall. Ascends the left side of the rock. The first few moves are very juggy and fun, then attacks the tricky crux in the crack before attaining good underclings at a small overlap. Pull above this to a large corner , clip and make a couple more juggy moves left to the chains. Fun but short (1.5 stars). Decent route to get the blood flowing a little before hopping on

Sonic Youth

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4 or 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.