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Peak Mountain 3

Siren's Arete

FA FRA Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Nov 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a really cool ridge climb on the west end of the feature. It is mostly easy rambling with a couple sections of fun climbing on generally good rock. It is very much an adventure climb. It starts on the ledge where "cthulu rises" tops out. P0- climb any of the easy cracks to gain the walk-off bowl as well as the start of the route. P1- Head up on bullet-proof chocolate varnish, cool climbing leads up and right to a large roof with comically large holds. continue up the easy corner to a nice stance below a slab. 180' 5.7 P2- Head up the easy and well featured slab, step down and left where it steepens to a nice belay ledge 180' 5.3 P3- A right facing corner above leads to the crux roof, then run your rope to the base of the summit tower. 200' 5.8 P4- Well protected face climbing on the left hand edge of the tower leads to the summit 60' 5.7

Decent- Single 30m rappel takes you down into the gully below the tower. from there a 3rd class exit skiers left provides you with access to the large slabby basin. Head up and over the bulge (top of the gecko wall) up-canyon of where you are and hike up and south to link into the scramblers route.

Location

W ridge of the Wave, accessed by climbing a route on the e side of the gecko wall.

Protection

single rack


Routes in The Wave