Progression

Past the base of

Grapevine

(west) is an immense left facing arch. The first pitch of

Eumenides

climbs the left-most dihedral of this arch. The arch itself is composed of about 4-5 left-facing dihedrals, Progression climbs the second one from the right. This dihedral may also be identified by a beautiful white corner (only about 30' high) at the start of the second pitch (the crux).

Scramble up to the base of the dihedral.

P1: climb the interesting crack as it shoots up through featured green rock (lichens). This is a fun and well protected 5.8 pitch. The pitch ends at a spectacular stance at the base of the white corner.

P2: Lieback up the white corner to a flared hand jam, solve the crux and crank over a strange looking black flake. Although you can place a stopper every 2' in the white dihedral, the placements are flared and tricky and will pump you out. Continue on up a bombay chimney (5.8, 3.5" piece useful) with wild stemming moves to belay on a huge ledge.

At this point you are about 30' above the top of the second pitch of

Grapevine

, and you can continue on

Grapevine

. Or continue via ... [description supplied by Scott Kimball].

Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (

i.e.

fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto

Grapevine

, then belay on the far left edge to a fine, sitdown ledge.

Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a left-facing dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.

Pitch #5 Easy slabs.

Standard rack to 3.5".