First Lady

Paul and I climbed First Lady in July 1983 after doing the first three pitches of

Mr. President

We both thought it was a more fitting finish for that great route than the easy exit pitches. It looks formidable, because it is somewhat overhung for a considerable distance at the outset. I remember it was strenuous but not as bad as expected and quite a thrill.

I found this description in the margin of my old Kimball and Salaun guide and thought it deserved to be shared.

It is the slightly overhung hand crack on the right wall of the huge dihedral right of the belay after the third pitch of

Mr. President

. I think we moved the belay a few feet right to get below the crack. Do the standard descent from Sundance.

Standard trad rack as used on

Mr. President

. There are no bolts, fixed gear, or anchors of any kind. I don't recall any concern about bad pro or bad rock.