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Peak Mountain 3

Nameles Corner

FA Mark Sprague
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

About in the middle of the Sporty area, where the trail makes a little jog up to the cliff and makes a T, head back right on a little dirt ledge under the offwidth start of Sporty Owl to find, above a short slab,  a nice steep arching corner with a finger crack. Approach the corner from the right so you can protect, (not the left, as the Handren guide says), by doing a couple moves up the blocks in the gully and mantling up on to the slab where there is a crack running up its edge and traversing into the corner. Jam and stem your way up the corner until the crack splits around a block. Continue straight up (right) to do a tricky exit move and up to the left side of the Lady of the Lake ledge and a bolted anchor. (Splitting left at the block and heading up to the first pitch anchor of Sporty Owl is also a good alternative) Fun climbing and well protected. If the corner was a little longer it would get a full 3 stars from me. For a 4 star link up walk right across the belay ledge to the belay of Lady of the Lake and do its wild second pitch 10+/11a crack above.

Location

the middle of the Sporty Area

Protection

wires and small cams up to about 2" (maybe #3 Camalot), bolted anchors at a great belay ledge