Owl with a Growl - open project

On the right side of the Butolicious arete is a finger crack. Start up the first few bolts of Butolicious (recommended) or climb up the short corner to the right with marginal gear if you want to be a purist, to gain a stance. Head up the finger crack using some sharp painful finger locks through the crux (barndoory and a little reachy), then continue up a few face moves that share with Butolicios to gain the crack in the overlap that leads right. Follow the crack out to the second vertical hand crack, that leads up and eventually angles back left to a bolted anchor. The climbing is very good (almost 3 stars, but I am trying not to pump the stars) except for the couple painful crux moves, and the gear seems good.Jerry gave this the working name "Bumping Uglies" for his 2012 guidebook, but i think it is getting changed to this for the new edition. I have TRed the first pitch, but have not lead it or linked the second, as I haven't figured out how to get a huge hanging jammed plate out from below the roof of the top pitch safely yet. You should be fine on the first pitch unless you get that one in a hundred year event and the plate decides to cut loose above you. Have at it if you wish.The second pitch will need a few bolts and will be wild and likely fairly hard. There is already a second pitch anchor.

the right side of the bolted Butolicious arete

nuts and cams up to fist size. tape for your fingers