- Edit (TBD)
Description
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
Location
On the wall left of the Wailing Banshees arete.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 BA shared with Wailing Banshees. May want a hand-sized piece at the start.
Routes in Below The Old New Place
- 13Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)5.12aSport