Fat Boys Don't Fly

This is the first bolted route to the right of Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with Route 22 (5.9).

Route #23 in

The right end. Not all routes shown. 18. PMS 19. IDYWASIAD 23. Fat Boys Don't Fly 28. Sardonic Smile 30. Strong Urge to Fly .

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.