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Description
Twin Pillar is a good climb if you like chimney climbing. It is not so great if you don't.
P1, 5.8+. Start up the mellow and non-descript corner on very easy climbing. After a few body lengths, a flake on the right side wall appears. Place a piece of gear in this, and pinch and cling your way up into it (crux) and around to the right. Top out on the tower this surmounts, and foot-traverse low or hand-traverse high for 3-4 meters on to the main wall. Head back and right to an obvious wide crack and slot to build a belay on hand-sized cams.
P2, 5.8-. Chimney up above the belay facing either direction- left has no holds, and right has funky balance. Either way, it's a chimney. A #5 Camalot C4 is useful if you want to protect the wider areas of this. After a bulge in the slot, the climb curves left, and the grade eases. You can stop on the shoulder of the summit & walk off, or you can head up to the true summit and do a set of two 100' raps.
A 70m rope adds comfort for those raps. If you are on a 60m, watch the ends carefully.
Location
Start from the top of the upper part of the access ledge, 6 meters left of the big, twisted Juniper trees at the base of Groovy. The guide describes this as a chimney, but I'd say it is more of a jumbled left-facing corner.
Protection
A standard rack with a #5 C4 Camalot if you like protection overhead in OW/squeeze chimnies. Also, bring a 70m rope if you rap the rock from the summit instead of walking off, which is recommended!
Routes in The Acrophile
- 17Twin Pillar5.8+Trad