- Edit (TBD)
Description
That '70s Route has few short independent pitches that can be linked into one, followed by a 3rd finish pitch for a total of about 250' of rock. Along the way there is a bit of everything, but the business is a boxed-in shallow corner with limited gear options, followed by some thin face moves.
Start up the mellow splitter on the central pillar, working back to the main cliff on top of that first feature. Climb up a right-facing, right-leaning, and ever-shrinking corner crack to an insecure crux at a (perhaps) 50 year old pin. Check your gear, and go for it. Above that, you step up onto thin face holds and clip a dubious bolt from an insecure stance. At least the fall line looks clean, but the bolt is not a sure thing, so be glad of that....
From the bolt, step up, and head left onto a blunt arete-like feature and up to the belay. This is probably about 150' total as a single lead.
For a topout pitch, follow cracks and flakes up and left past a small tree and up under the main roof. Cross left under the roof and to its left side. Head up an easy corner and to the summit from there, where a set of two 100' raps can take you back to the main ledge.
Location
The route starts up on a good ledge about 1/2 way between the start of
Black Powder
and
Twin Pillar
. This is just around to the right side of the primary left-facing corner from the ledge and perhaps 5 meters left still of the second, smaller such corner. The first pitch is easily linked into the second to the second belay as for
Black Powder
and can likewise be finished with the same 3rd pitch.
Protection
A set of gear from tiny cams and a few RPs to 3". A buttonhead bolt with a Leeper hanger protect the final slab moves, but those are 5.9. The crux is over before you are runout, and the fall would be clean if you had protected before the crux bolt.
Routes in The Acrophile
- 14That '70s Route5.10Trad