El Cuervo

This is an incredible route. It laid dormant for  years until 2019 when it started seeing traffic. Most likely due to the awkward logistics of climbing it (see below) and the sheer scale of the thing. Star rating reflects the climbing after the approach pitch, which is pretty bad. The climbing that follows might be some of the best on the mountain in terms of rock quality, movement and crux sequence. Don’t underestimate the slab finish on redpoint. You finish at the very top of tower and topping out is a real treat. Thanks to the FA for the hard work and vision. This route is about 170’ from the belay at the top of the approach pitch. Climbing past the crux is basically point of no return (can’t lower back to the belay) especially on a 60m rope. Luckily once through the crux the climbing eases up so going to the chains shouldn’t be an issue.

From SQIII: “This route starts by climbing the rib 5.9 that forms the right side of the dihedral on the original first pitch of picket line. The anchors are below. You will need 23 quick draws to reach and clip the anchors. If your belayer does not follow the pitch with a second rope, getting off takes some effort.”

LOWERINGIf you lower from the anchors you will find yourself almost 20’ from the wall in space (and out of rope). Either have your belayer follow you, top out, and rap down the opposite side -OR- before leaving the belay at the start of the route proper, tape a second rope to the end of your climbing rope (we used a 7.5mm tag line and also a standard 9.8mm on different attempts) with a healthy overlap. Pay special care to tape it so that it can run smoothly through the quick draws when pulling. Once at the anchors, pull up the second rope, tie the ends together (your preferred method) and rappel. The second strand will still be through all of the quick draws which will allow your belayer to pull you back in to the wall as you are lowering to clean. Be mindful of your rope, knot and quick draws and plan accordingly. If leaving draws, make sure to either un clip every draw OR plan to tie your knot so that you can pull the free strand and not have to try to pull a knot through 23 quick draws. 

Obvious enormous face of beautiful red granite just left of El Curvo

About 23 quick draws