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Peak Mountain 3

Hotshot

FA EFR,JSt, '01
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.

Location

The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.

Protection

Bolts