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Peak Mountain 3

Windy

FA Reveley, Higbee and Erickson 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Windy is the obscure classic just right, around the corner from the Aerospace arete. This is a very unique route for Eldo for its second pitch chimney, but full on Eldo weirdness on the crux first pitch...Teeter up a steep slab as shown in the new book topo (hairy 5.9) or walk from the left above. Surmount a leaning tower of choss and unload some good gear. Do the super commiting move above and tiptoe up to a belay under the chimney. Ascend the well protected chimney and turn the awesome roof up into a dihedral...Belay or continue up and right of the roof to a ledge, place a small wire or two and do some cool moves up toward the next ledge...The best belay is out left on the arete (Aerospace). My choice for the best final pitch is Aeronaut (11a), up the arete. Walk off...

Protection

3/4"-2" cams, wired nuts and brass...#5 Camalot.