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Peak Mountain 3

Aerospace

FA Ed Webster, Bill Feiges, Leondard Coyne, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Rossiter gives this route an S rating and I disagree. The bolts are far by Sport Park standards, but the climbing isn't dangerous. Rossiter grades the route as 11b, but this pitch is considerably harder than either

Aerohead

or

Aeronaut

which are both graded 11b as well.

Start in the dihedral just to the right of

Over the Hill

.

P1. Climb up the corner about 20' and move right below a flake. Make a tricky move around the corner and clip the first bolt. Continue up the arete, the crux is near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt you can either swing back to the face or (as I did) traverse right across one flake into a large, left-facing flake. Pull over this flake and then move back left around the arete. Traverse left to a hand crack, then traverse up and right. Belay below the roof.

P2. We continued on

Aerohead

, but there is a second pitch. Pitch 1 and 2 may be combined for one long lead.

Protection

Rack to a #3.5 Friend, QDs