Rock Around the Clock

This route can be done in several different ways.  You can do the first pitch as one long, 150', pitch or break it in two pitches to avoid rope drag by belaying at the mid-pitch anchors.  The second, third if you break it up, pitch can be done in two ways.  One can climb up and left on easy terrain passing a single bolt to a two bolt anchor with chains for rappel(5.2).  Or, you can climb directly above the belay past 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor(5.8).  From the top of either variation it is an easy scramble up to the very top of Machete Ridge.  For extra enjoyment you can finish on Old Original.

You can get down from this climb, and from the top of Machete Ridge as well, with a single 50m rope.  Rappel from the top of pitch two(5.2 variation) to the top of pitch one. Then use the mid-pitch anchors of the first pitch to make two rappels to the base of the climb.  From there, scramble about 200 feet down and right(west) to the last rappel. This might be a bit difficult to find.  It is located about 50 feet downhill from the anchors on top of the West Face's first pitch on the edge of the small cliff band which is climbed by the West Face's first pitch.

Note that while this route is a combination of aid and free climbing, you cannot aid the 5.9 section on the first pitch. As the French like to say, '5.9 obligatoire.'  Also, note that there are some long reaches between bolts in the ladder.  It is strongly advised that you take regular etriers (aiders) and don't just knot some slings together and try and get by.

This climb begins partway up the west face of the Machete. The easiest way to get to the start is to do the first pitch of the West Face route then scramble about 150' left to the base of a very prominent overhanging black water streak with two bolts on the left side for a belay.

If you do the first pitch as one long pitch then bring 20 quick draws. If you are splitting up the first pitch bring 12 draws.