- Edit (TBD)
Sons of the West
Description
Excellent, prominent line going up one of the steeper portions of Machete ridge. Sons of the West is the free line of Icarus. It essentially follows almost all of Icarus, except for about a 50 ft section. If you liked Son of Dawn wall, you will likely enjoy this climb. It is more sustained and longer than Son of Dawn wall.
P1 - Go up the discontinuous and pocketed crack, trending up and right after slinging a tree branch that abuts the cliff. Anchor is one new-ish bolt, and a couple of relics.(5.8++ 80' or so)
P2 - Aid up the bolt ladder. There are couple of old relics, but mostly it is new bolts. End at two bolt belay with chains. (C0 and 85' or so)
P3 - Long slabby pitch with very hard to see bolts at times. Crux comes at the end, 5.11ish. Probably depends on what has broken off or is exfoliating at the time. End at chains below a small roof on the left (5.11ish and 100' or so)
P4 - Head right off the belay following bolts. Enter the V-slot. Worm your way up the stanky, loose, v-slot. Eventually find two bolt belay with chains. (5.8++ and 140'ish)
P5 - Slab up the rest of the V-slot aiming for shade under a MASSIVE flake. There are a bunch of bolts, 2 bolt belay with chains (5.8 and 180').
P6 - Casually romp your way to the summit ledge, and walk east until you find the rappel line off the back.
Location
Hike up past Son of Dawn wall, to the apex of the large dirt hill. There is a large boulder here. Down and to climber's left is a pocketed crack and the start of the route. If you look up into the blue-green lichen and the headwall, you should be able to see bolts.
Protection
Single rack of cams to 3. Useful to have at least a rivet hanger or two for the bolt ladder. A 60 m rope will get you up. You can rappel with a 60 m rope off the back side. We brought 15 draws, and that worked for the bolt ladder.
Routes in Main Face
- 9Sons of the West5.11Trad · Aid