Pegg Leg

This route ascends the chimney system just right of Sand Castle. It's named after Dave Pegg, who died in 2014. This route would be as unattractive to him -- being primarily a sport climber -- as his beat-up legs (from kneebars) were to everyone else.

p1: Climb 20 feet of unprotected face (5.7 R) to a much easier crack and face. Tiptoe past some blocks to a nice, flat alcove beneath a white overhang. 5.7, 40 meters.

p2: Thrutch past the right side of the overhang (harder than it looks), then continue up a crack to a ledge beneath a tree and wide chimney. 5.11b, 25 meters.

p3: Either climb the chimney or its left arete (small gear) to start, then climb flakes until you're funneled into the crack. Squeeze up the smooth, varnished slot (optional belay on top) and continue up easier rock, veering left, to finish on a flat ledge at the top. 5.8, 55 meters.

To descend walk 30 feet climber's left to the top of Ten Minute Shift. Rappel that route in 4 or 5 single-rope raps.

[*We replaced the webbing on 4 anchors but it's a good idea to have webbing and a knife to improve existing tat].

1ea: small-medium nuts; #1 Metolius - #4 Camalot 2ea: #.5 - #1 Camalot