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Peak Mountain 3

Arms Reduction

FA Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Arms Reduction is a refreshing variation to the overbolted lower pitches of Armatron. It climbs up surprisingly fun moves on good rock that protects reasonably too. Perhaps I am a little biased but I feel it is better climbing in better style than Armatron's lower pitches.

Pitch 1, 195ft, 5.9 -Begin by face climbing up 15ft to a moon shaped arching crack. Move up the crack. As the crack starts to arch left move rightward out of the crack onto the face. Above the moon-shaped feature are two left leaning parallel cracks. Continue up and right to the rightmost of the parallel cracks. Continue up this crack until you reach a small sloping ledge for a belay.

Pitch 2, 160ft, 5.9 Move straight up the crack into the chimney on nice huecos. When you reach a bush move out left onto the chocolate face. Move straight up the featured face until you reach a small ledge with the Armatron anchors to your left.

Pitch 3 Rappel or continue up the boltless upper pitch of Armatron for another pitch of good climbing.

Location

This route starts about 50ft right of (bolted)Armatron. Look for an obvious arching crack to the right of dark rock.

Rappel Armatron.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" and a set of micronuts