Beam Me Up Scotty

Due to good-intentioned folks hoping to preserve the route this classic lcc line has not yet been added to mountain project. I do so now only because word is out and the answer to preserving a natural rescource is to spread awareness. The secrets all slip out eventually and the tight-lipped can do nothing about the fact that joe shmo is free to climb whatever he likes.

Beam Me Up is sick!  The movement is unique, the position lovey. This thing is a committing slab journey on diorite chicken heads, which do sadly tend to sometimes break; Therefore tread lightly. This route is not for the feint of heart, nor for those without relevant experience. Being a 5.12 sport crusher (or even crack-smasher) does not necissarily mean you can climb 11d slab. In fact often it means that you cannot. Better to save the flailing for another slab than impacting this climb negatively.

May I therefore respectfully

suggest

a few pre-requisites. Pebbles and bambam (beckeys wall), Final Link (Crescent crack area), S-Direct (The thumb), Dorsal Fin. The one hard crux move on Dorsal is very similar to several sections of this pitch.

If you’re ready to get beamed up then go for it! Maybe Nob Job or Cymbols will call to you next depending on whether you’d like to push boldness or difficulty. This route is both bold and difficult. If you’re falling you’re cheese-grating. If you’re being caught, it might be from a slung chickenhead. Dont climb when wet.  Maybe best to avoid the last “hand-foot-match-one-legged-squat” move off the croissant after a storm of donuts. When that thing goes the world will be a much sadder place.

the upper tier of the waterfront must be reached to find the belay pin on the far right section of the sloping ledge system. Easiest to simul-climb chickenhead holiday or losing my religion to access the belay. BMUS ascends the slab directly right of the waterfront cave. It’s above and to the left of the diagnal corner which is the beginning of Flirtin’ With Death.

1pin, 7 bolts, singles to 1” for the short crack island, slings/webbing for slingin’ chicken-heads. Original decent beta is to simul-rap with the rope around the croissant but maybe a better, more redundant option is to traverse left and rappel from some tat.