- Edit (TBD)
Description
This takes the huge left-facing dihedral that splits the whole rock and is very prominent from the road. The start of the climb is reached by hiking up and right and getting onto large ramp system that brings you to the start of the route.
Climb slabby rock with little pro as it steepens and gets polished... you will see a fixed pin under a large roof, don't go that high but traverse left on scary moderate ledge to a slab that brings you up and left and into the dihedral (scary moves above tricky pro) and take the steep corner (6-10 inch crack) by climbing face just left of the crack for a long way (just when you think things will ease up they don't) and turning roof high up to a ledge with 2 new bolts. This pitch is long and protection is thoughtful (unless you haul a bunch of #5 camalots).....5.5 is total sandbag, I'd say sustained 5.7 with a few scary sections.
Pitch 2 continues up the face left of the huge corner and is much easier but fun and steep with big holds. Not a beginner lead despite the 5.5 rating.
Protection
Stoppers and Aliens to #4 Camalot (#5 if you like hauling that anchor along).
Routes in Eagle Rock
- 20Great Dihedral5.6Trad