Rarely Eagle

Rarely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (

Eagle Hardware

) and 5.11d corner (

Golden Eagle

) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.

Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.

The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- I guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.

This is midway between

Eagle Hardware

and

Golden Eagle

.

Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.