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Peak Mountain 3

Rage Against the Dying Fire

FA Keith Azevedo, Wendy Hanna
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route provides a classic mix of excellent cracks, great rock, spacious belay ledges and moderate climbing, equipped with all stainless steel bolts and hangers. Pitches 4-7 are shared with Cathedral of Western Fire. The route is very well protected.Pitch 1: 10b, 28m, gear anchorClimb intermittent cracks to reach an excellent lie back at the first bulge. Once over the bulge continue up a great crack system from hands to fingers to reach the roof above. At the roof step right and up to surmount the roof via finger locks and laybacks. Belay approximately 5m over roof at a decent stance with excellent gear for an anchor.Pitch 2: 5.9, 26m, bolted anchorContinue up the obvious crack system until it ends at the base of a broken buttress. Step left on to slab/face with intermittent protection passing around the broken buttress on its left side. Continue climbing past a small pine tree at the point where the broken buttress reaches the main face. At this point, cross over onto the main face via a continuous crack from fingers to hands, to reach a 2 bolt belay on the fin. Pitch 3: 10a, 30m, bolted anchorFrom the bolted anchor climb up and along the fin to the left for 7m to reach a bolt on the face. Clip the bolt and move up and right, then back left, following a series of cracks and ledges. As the cracks fade into a succession of large ledges and sidepulls, trend right across ledges to reach a 2 bolt belay on a large ledge. Pitch 4: 10a, 27m, bolted anchorFrom the belay ledge, head right (avoid getting lured into the loose corner on your left) then slightly left to tricky moves that guard a small delicate overlap, with a bolt within reach up high. Head upwards for about 3 meters above the bolt to easier climbing. From here, head right across the face to find protection in the slab. Cross the slab above by trending left to another hidden crack system. From this crack, continue straight up, passing easier, blocky ground to reach the top of the buttress, which offers a wonderful belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 5: 10c, 34m, bolted anchorHead up and right of the belay, to climb the left facing corner. At the top of the hand crack, step right, continuing rightward to reach a 3 to 4-inch diagonal crack. At the top of this crack, step left onto the face gaining the first bolt. Climb directly up from the first bolt (avoid getting pulled into the loose corner on your left) through a series of intricate side pulls and good feet, to reach a second bolt. Continue upwards with a slight right trend, surmounting a small bulge. Clipping the last bolt, then climb up and left to gain the left side of the amazing arête. Continue straight up cracks and low angle slab to a two-bolt anchor on a belay ledge. Pitch 6: 10a, 28m, bolted anchorHead up the obvious open book to your left, climbing a fun crack that ends in a small section of slab. At the slab, head up and right to tackle a short, ten-foot section of off-width/chimney just below a pine tree. Step right at the pine tree to gain a two-bolt belay ledge. Pitch 7: 10a, 33m, bolted anchorStep right across the chasm, continue traversing right for approximately 3 meters, to gain the first crack system. Take this crack about 4-meters high, then step far right again, to gain a second amazing splitter. Follow this crack for 20 meters ending in a left facing corner. Climb this corner, gaining another stunning belay ledge. Pitch 8: 10a, 27m, bolted anchorAn awesome pitch. From the belay head right into the corner using laybacks, small cracks and edges to clip a fixed nut. Once at the fixed nut, avoid traversing left and instead stay in this corner, continuing to layback until reaching the base of the incredible serrated crack. Jam your way up the aesthetic crack, which ends too soon, to reach a belay ledge with a two bolt anchor below the roof above. Pitch 9: 10a, 35m, slung tree anchorMove up and right climbing a series of right facing corners with excellent cracks, to reach a roof with a crack splitting the right side of it. Turn the roof using incredible finger locks and great feet. Continue up cracks and an insignificant area of slab to reach a small overhang that is capped by a moderate sized drainage above. From above the small overhang continue straight up a small step and further up a right facing corner to reach a ledge with a right slanting crack. Climb the crack to reach the top of the shield where a slung tree will provide an excellent anchor and phenomenal views. Descent: One 70m rope. Every pitch has a 2 bolt anchor equipped to rap with a single 70m rope, except the top of pitch 1 and 9 (slung tree). From the top of the route, if heading back to the base, you can descend the standard fixed lines or rappel the route joining Cathedral of Western Fire at the top of pitch 7 where you can continue to rap Cathedral of Western Fire.

Location

As with most routes on the shield, this route is predominately southwest facing, affording ample sun exposure from late morning until sunset. The route is located about 5 minutes uphill from The Promise Land. It starts about 3 meters uphill from a broken, 7-meter-high pillar and 25m uphill of Cathedral of Western Fire. To reach the base of the climb either:Hike up the Fletcher Trail (We put a decent amount of work into this trail).Descend the standard fixed lines.Rappel from top of Rage Against the Dying Fire to meet Cathedral of Western Fire at the top of pitch 7. From the top of pitch 7, rap Cathedral of Western Fire. Single 70m for all raps.

Protection

C4 Camalots Doubles (0.75-2)

C3 Camalots

Single Purple - YellowZ4 Camalots Double 0.4-0.5Small set of nuts