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Peak Mountain 3

Standard S Route

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Description

A fun outing up the middle of the Shield. Easy fifth class gets you into the gully leading up and right to a large clump of trees. From here, traverse left on a ledge with trees, climb up onto a narrowing ledge that ends by a left-facing dihedral. Make a move down and left into the dihedral, before climbing up, back right onto a little prow and mantel up by a tree with a sling on it. From there climb up and left to the next large clump of trees. Mid-fifth class climbing gets you into the next gully, which you follow up and right to its end. From here you can probably choose which dihedral to climb for the last pitch(crux).

Location

The route is in the middle of the Shield. Approach via the Fletcher trail and when it starts a long right-ward traverse, bushwhack straight up to the start. Alternately, traverse in from the Rincon Spur. Descend by down-climbing the Knife-Edge (fastest) or continue to the Crest and take the Chimney Canyon or La Luz trail down. Moving quickly, you can do the approach in just over an hour, but 2 hours+ seems the consensus.

Protection

Light standard traditional rack.