Wanker (upper)

This is a description of the upper 2 pitches (sections) of

Wanker

, since the route description for

Wanker

is only for the lower pitch (section). While guidebooks may refer to this route as 3 pitches, it is normally climbed in one pitch. There are anchors atop each pitch (or section). Between 2007 & 2013, I repeated this route every year. It became my favorite climb at Vampire Rock. A helmet is advised for the belayer. Even though the rock is pretty solid, I was almost hit by a sizable piece of rock that my partner accidentally broke off below the anchor on pitch 1.

After climbing the first 50 feet of

Wanker

(.12a), clip a bolt just right of the anchor for pro with a long draw or sling, rather than clip the anchor. This will keep the rope line straighter.

Pitch 2 (.12b). Climb over the roof. This begins from jugs underneath to reach a jam at the lip. Clip the 2nd bolt, and crank a show stopper crux getting over the lip. Once standing at the lip, there is a bolt with a chain to clip, before balancing up the slab to a jug. Clip a bolt to the right, & clip out of the chain. Move up right to a no hands rest stance at an anchor, 4 bolts & a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.11d/12a). Clip 2 close bolts above the anchor, putting a long sling on the 1st bolt and a long draw on the 2nd bolt. Clip out of the anchor and the last bolt on pitch 2 to reduce rope drag. Ascend a tiered overhang with a final crux past the 4th bolt. Gain a sloping ledge above the lip. Move up right to the anchor, 5 bolts & a 3 bolt anchor.

Cleaning can be tricky. Use the left two anchor bolts, not all three. Lower down pitch 3 and notice that your rope is running in the best spot on the final lip.  Stop at the pitch 2 anchor and clip in. Untie and pull your rope down. Lower off the 2nd anchor, which works well to clean the rest of the route (pitch 2 and 1).

Start on

Wanker

, and continue upward to climb the entire route.

19 clips and a 3 bolt anchor. Some long draws and slings are useful to reduce rope drag.