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Description
This is a great route on super stone. Do
That's Weak
to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.
The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground (no rappel rings). With a
70 meter rope
, you can climb
That's Weak
and TG, TB, &TJ in one pitch and lower off,
but put a knot in the end of the rope!
Protection
For the actual pitch, clip about 7-9 bolts and a two bolt chain anchor. If you combine this with
That's Weak
for one long pitch, bring about 16-17 (19?) quickdraws.
For a toprope of The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, bring 2 additional quickdraws/anchor slings, since the anchor only has rap rings.
That's Weak has lowering hooks at the anchor.
Routes in Vampire Rock
- 13The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked5.12aSport