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Peak Mountain 3

Dueling Bugles

FA Manuel R, David S
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Location

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.

Protection

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.