- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Good OW and squeeze chimney technique helps a bit on P1, with the pro being all the way in the back. After emerging from the squeeze chimney, make a short traverse climber's right around the corner (don't forget to protect your follower) to a two bolt anchor. Move belay in front of large chimney. 50'
P2: Head straight up the wide chimney, aiming for the small notch above the roof. The move to gain the left crack formed by the side wall and large roof chockstone doesn't protect well and is a bit heads up, but is very secure, especially if you start chimneying towards back where it's narrower and gradually come towards the front of the chimney. Climb up through the notch, and make a few additional moves directly up to a two bolt anchor. 50'
Direct Start For those not wanting to do P1 (what's the matter with you?!), there is a direct start (5.8) located 30' to the right around the corner of P1. Climb the low angled ramp into the OW and build a belay at base of P2 chimney to bring up the follower. Add a BD #5 if doing the direct start (and #6 as well if not comfortable with OW; a fall onto the ramp could be nasty).
Location
P1 is the large squeeze chimney that bisects the bottom half of the NE face of Stewart Peak. Approximately 20 ft climber's right of Blade of Damascus.
Protection
Doubles of BD #.75-3, with a single #4, 4-5 alpine draws. 2 bolt anchors.
Routes in Stewart Peak
- 18Spelunk5.9Trad