Super Best Bubs

Tall and wonderfully exposed with varied, sustained movement. Enjoy spectacular positions high above Franconia Notch on a hanging face, an airy arete, and finally an overhanging crack system. A must do; six stars on a five-star scale.Scramble up the easy dihedral - make sure to back clean any pieces that you place before the first bolt. Pull over the roof by making an awkward move on a spooky looking, but completely solid block. Follow the crack left for a few moves (optional No. 4 placement), and then immediately break hard right onto the face. Follow bolts out right onto the highly exposed, hanging face. Roll out right to reach the Tombstone Flake. This flake feels very solid, but it hasn’t yet been tested with a crowbar (will happen very soon). Continue on the airy arete above, making cruxy moves separated by great rests. Climb higher into the overhanging double-crack feature, finding good pro and no-hands kneebar high on the wall. Smile and enjoy the view while you shake out in this awesome position. Look atcha! A micro cam or two (BD 0.1 or smaller fits great) protect the top. Punch it through the airy finish. It is possible to stop for a 0.3 placement before making the final balancy step left to reach the stance where you can clip the anchor.

Just down the trail and left of the stone patio in a rampy dihedral. Look for a high first bolt just above the roof. The belayer should position themself about 15 feet left of the start ramp, directly under the high first bolt. Shared start with “Pin it to Win it.”

Knot in the end of your rope. Single rack 0.1 to No. 2 and nuts. Doubles 0.1 to 0.75. Optional No. 4.