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Peak Mountain 3

Lil Bub Died Bubbing

FA Andy Casler & Amanda Griffin. May 29, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Multiple cruxes, cool grips, and a wonderfully airy second half.This is a long pitch so start by putting a knot in the end of your rope. 70M required to lower off in one. It's possible to double lower and clean this with a 60M by stopping at the Wünderbub anchor.Scramble up easy rock to reach a cam placement. Pull the first crux and then reach a good stance where you can place another piece. Another cruxy sequence leads you to a bolt. At the piton, traverse right about five feet, clip a bolt out left, and then head up.Follow bolts through steep rock, and enjoy engaging climbing separated by good rest stances. Trend right at the roof and reach the Wünderbub anchors. Don’t stop here! Make sure to finish the route by doing excellent and very airy 5.9 G finish.

Clip a two-foot sling onto an anchor bolt, which assures that the rope doesn’t get trapped in the cracks out left, and follow cracks up the right-facing corner. Lots of options for great pro lead you onto a fantastically exposed, finger-crack face. Follow crack jugs and then trend slightly left, pulling the easy roof to reach a two-bolt anchor. Make sure to take in the meowtain views up top.

Location

Second from the right on Da Bub Wall. Starts at the stone patio, just left of Wünderbub at a section of scarred rock where a large flake was pried off. The flake now makes for a great recliner to sit and put on your climbing shoes or to lay back and watch climbers above.

Protection

Knot in the end of your rope. Single rack BD 0.1 to 0.75. Offset nuts or cams are helpful.70M required to lower off in one. It's possible to double lower and clean this with a 60M by stopping at the Wünderbub anchor.