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Peak Mountain 3

White Hawk

FA Birgit Buss
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Excellent sustained 11a. Into 11 c crux sidepull and crimp moves at the lip. Follow into crack that has a bare-healthy bush at the start. Another 75 feet to the anchors that end at the top of the thin crack.

Lots of choss, lots of loose flakes between bolts 1-2. This route needs to see traffic to clean up the loose debri. Recommend a helmet for belayer.

Hands down my favorite route at tollhouse

Location

20 feet below the start for the Upper traverse. Bolts run to the left of the Bottle flake 11a route with the first bolt 10 feet above the diagonal crack with a dike halfway pointing up

Move right then up to 2nd bolt

2nd bolt is high with ground level fall potential

Protection

6 draws. Singles thins-.75. If you like nuts - micros

chain anchor - double rope rap. 70m gets you 10 feet off the ground if rapping towards the upper traverse. Easy downclimb