- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.
Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge(gear).
Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse(gear).
Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.
Location
This route starts about 75-100' left of the start of Tollhouse Traverse.
Protection
Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts. Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware.
Routes in Main Wall
- 10True Grip5.10aTrad