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Peak Mountain 3

True Grip

FA Bruce Hildenbrand and Mike Clark, February 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.

Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge(gear).

Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse(gear).

Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.

Location

This route starts about 75-100' left of the start of Tollhouse Traverse.

Protection

Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts. Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware.