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Peak Mountain 3

Stoker

FA Lee Sheftel
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Good route between Crack Attack and The Matrix. Start out pulling the hardest moves of the climb. Near the second bolt you can use a giant sloper for upward progress or traverse left, up and back right. After this section the climbing eases and a few rests allow some recovery. Rest up and head back to harder climbing with a few tricky moves and the redpoint crux high up.

Be careful at the anchors of the large pine trees when the wind is blowing. While I didn't hit them in a leader fall (about as high as you possibly could fall), they blew into me while cleaning the anchors.

Location

Right-most on the main (front) side of the Rad Wall, starts by two large pine trees.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor. The third bolt has a permadraw on it to facilitate cleaning (the leader clips her/his rope into the permadraw on the way down while cleaning) and negates the swing into the trees behind.