- Edit (TBD)
Description
Admin note:
WARNING: This isn't a finished/complete route, or even a variation, just a smattering of exploratory bolts. See Jason's comment below.This variation to the right of Crack Attack was added in the last year or so. Maybe 50% of the route is independent; the middle section is shared. As it gets climbed, its consensus may prove to be slightly easier than the original line, as it doesn't have the cruxy finish of Crack Attack. I'll enter it at 12a, but it's sort of hard for me to gauge the rating because: (a) it didn't have a path of well-chalked holds, (b) I already knew Crack Attack fairly well, and (c) I hadn't climbed Rad Wall yet this season. (Were it a stand alone line, it would be a 4-star route. Crack Attack is awesome, hard to say this adds much to it that makes it better? I don't know.)The first bolt is 18' up between Crack Attack and Stoker. You shouldn't be pumped yet, but-- Do not fall getting to it!!!!! (or stick clip it). Just past this bolt a big reach off a small pocket gains a jug used on Crack Attack and Crack Attack's 4th bolt. Climb terrain shared with Crack Attack: the shouldery gaston-left move, then follow the shallow right-facing corner feature to the flake rest at its apex, clipping the Crack Attack 5th bolt (perma) on the way. At the flake rest, resist clipping the Crack Attack bolt (or back-clean it if you do); the bolt you want to clip is 4' off and up to your right. Just after you leave the rest, move right to a 3-bolt finish-- some holds early on this finish will be shared with Crack Attack.The 2-bolt anchor lacks chains or anything to lower from. Until this is remedied, clip draws to it, traverse left to Crack Attack anchor, then traverse back to clean.
Location
Start just left of Stoker, angle left to a high independent bolt, then into Crack Attack. Up high, look for a 3-bolt independent finish to the right of normal Crack Attack.
Protection
6 brown-painted-hangers/bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor needs chains currently. The 3rd bolt is a perma on Crack Attack. Consider using Crack Attack's 1st bolt as a belay bolt.
Routes in Rad Wall
- 8Pitted [Incomplete]5.12aSport